The Most Beautiful Towns of La Alpujarra
This rugged and steep corner of the south, a mystical territory touched by Muslim exoticism, hides charming villages, white as snowflakes, clinging to impossible slopes among winding roads and orchards that peek into the abyss. These are the villages of La Alpujarra, that Andalusian region shared by Granada and Almería, sprawling down the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. Behind the Alhambra and a stone's throw from the Mediterranean, these landscapes, which captivated 19th-century romantic writers, remain frozen in time, developing a gastronomy, craftsmanship, and way of life woven with tranquility and beauty.
La Alpujarra was the last bastion of the Moors in Spain, the refuge of Boabdil after losing Granada, the territory that took the longest to surrender to the Kingdom of Castile. This legacy can be seen in the agricultural landscape, in the architecture with Berber reminiscences, in the weaving of carpets and blankets, and in many names with clear Arabic resonance. Here are just a few villages you won't want to miss:
Lanjarón
Not only is it the gateway to the Granada Alpujarra, but it is also known as the village of water, famous throughout the country. In this aristocratic town, the water flowing from the peaks is enriched with minerals along the way and ends up gushing from five springs with healing properties. That continuous, fresh sound of water acts like a soundtrack in the village, where it's said one of the longest-living populations in the world resides. Beyond this anecdote, Lanjarón also features a romantic neo-Mudéjar-style spa and an interesting Water Museum.
Órjiva
Hidden in the hollow of a valley along the banks of the Guadalfeo River, the capital of the Granada Alpujarra stands out in the landscape for the twin towers of its Mudéjar church of Nuestra Señora de la Expectación. It is also embraced by fields of olive trees divided by a twisted road that grows steeper and wilder as it climbs to the higher parts. Many hippies were attracted to Órjiva by its isolation, drawn by the mysticism of that irresistible combination of sun, mountains, and silence.
Pitres
Its authenticity, typically Alpujarran, makes it one of the most charming towns, filled with steep slopes, covered passages, and hundreds of colorful potted plants contrasting with the immaculate walls. It is perhaps the best-preserved example of traditional architecture in the area, with its flat-roof houses (the terraos) crowned by round chimneys. From here, you can hike to the small village of Capilerilla, also beautiful in its solitude.
Trevélez
Impossible not to stop in this town famous for its cured ham (the aroma wafts through the streets) and for being the highest village in Spain, perched on the slope of Mulhacén at almost 1,500 meters. It is the cold, granted by the altitude, even in the summer months, that allows this delicacy to dry in the wind with magnificent results. In the square, you can buy pieces at a good price.
Capileira, Pampaneira, and Bubión
We group these three towns together, nestled in the Barranco de Poqueira because they share the same urban layout model, the same essence of a life enclave in a fragile and hostile territory exposed to winds and height. Terrace houses, narrow streets, bars serving delicious tapas of migas, shops displaying colorful blankets and esparto baskets in the sun. And paths around them where the purest mountain air reaches and, on clear days, the silhouette of Africa appears on the horizon with the peaks of the Atlas shrouded in mist.
Canjáyar
We include this village in the Almerian Alpujarra, at the foot of Sierra Nevada, rich in Andalusian heritage. An enclave surrounded by cool orchards that are still refreshed with centuries-old irrigation channels and, seen from afar from a nearby viewpoint, offers a beautiful sight: the contrast of the whitewashed houses against that lush green.