With the Bedouins in the Jordanian Desert

author

Edgar Loper

Updated: 26 May 2026 ·
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With the Bedouins in the Jordanian Desert

Dana Biosphere Reserve
Dana Biosphere Reserve / Mytho/istock photo by viajar.elperiodico.com
Jordan Desert
Jordan Desert / www.ecohotels.me photo by viajar.elperiodico.com

Just like in those times when long caravans of camels crossed the reddish desert, echoing the tales of Lawrence of Arabia on his epic journey across the sands, there is a place in Jordan where one can feel for a few days like a true Bedouin. This place is the Dana Biosphere Reserve, an expanse of dunes and mountains that sprawl across the north of Petra, from the top of the Rift to the Wadi Arab desert. A series of rocky valleys burnt by the harshness of the climate, where nothing in the surroundings suggests there is life.

However, life does exist, hidden among the stone crevices, in makeshift homes resembling tents that reflect the movements of at least 900,000 semi-nomadic Bedouins who inhabit this area. They are the native inhabitants of Dana, the friendly and hospitable Ata'ta tribe that has kept alive the tradition of a settlement that began in this territory over six thousand years ago.

Their daily life flows as it did in the beginning of time: holding on to the land and devoid of modern conveniences, they typically pitch their goat-hair tents in a designated area, accompanied by their belongings and animals (sheep, dromedaries...). Yet, as grass begins to dwindle, they move to another location, allowing for the regeneration of the previous land.

Alongside them, deep in one of these valleys that require 4x4 vehicles to navigate the jumps and slopes of the terrain, stands Feynan Ecolodge. This establishment defines itself as an eco-lodge and showcases the same design as the historical caravanserais, where merchants found rest along the famous Silk Road, serving the same purpose of hospitality (to stay overnight, feed animals...), making them the predecessors of today's roadside motels.

Here, one can truly live a genuine Bedouin adventure. An ancient experience akin to what these nomadic Arabs have performed for ages, inhabiting desert regions (not just in Jordan, but also in Saudi Arabia, Syria, Iraq, and Israel). Indeed, the term Bedouin means 'dweller of the desert' or, more colloquially, 'where there is no permanent population.'

Feynan Ecolodge is the best refuge to escape the hustle and bustle of urban life. To return to the simplicity of small things, to leave behind civilization, forget about WhatsApp, and soak in the tranquility of a lyrical landscape, while enjoying the hospitality of this tribe. Because just like the ancient caravanserais, this lodge also lacks electricity; instead, it draws its energy from the sun. Everything about its operation is environmentally friendly, as they proudly declare. Their unique philosophy, based on sustainability and ecological practices, pursues three main premises: to contribute to conservation, benefit local inhabitants, and generate minimal impact on the environment.

These premises are by no means at odds with comfort. Feynan Ecolodge is designed so that, even without air conditioning, there are still comforts available. Its thick walls help maintain freshness, while its inner courtyards provide shade and a cool breeze. At night, when the solar panels stop being effective, the hotel is illuminated by hundreds of candles, wrapped in dramatic lighting. An unforgettable image in this remote fold of the desert.